Category Archives: ruby

Book Reviews: Kapur on J. B. Tavernier, Hughes on Ruby/Sapphire, Yavvorskky on Garnet

Jean Baptiste Tavernier, A Life:  KAPURIMAGE

Harish Kapur’s reasonably well written short biography of Jean Baptiste Tavernier, the 17th Century gem dealer who  the Hope Diamond has quite a bit to recommend it.  He covers the important parts of Tavernier’s life, travels and writing.  I am particularly taken by his ability to extract from the minutia of Tavernier’s long life, some of the more salient points.    

Unfortunately, the narrative is marred by a number of factual errors.  The most egregious, perhaps resulting from an injudicious use of MSWord’s find/replace shortcut the word “diamond” in the last two thirds of the manuscript has been replaced by “pearl.”  For the uninformed reader, this results in a number of misstatements about Tavernier’s objectives and focus as well as a several absurd statements concerning the “mining” of pearls and the “pearl mines” of India.   A photo of a drawing from Tavernier’s Six Voyages, of a diamond that became known as The Mirror of Portugal is ludicrisly mis-labeled “The Sara Pearl.”

The author also somehow misquotes Tavernier’s assertion that he traveled 60,000 leagues which becomes 600,000 leagues.  At three miles to the league that leads to the ridiculous assertion that Tavernier traveled not 180,000 (an amazing accomplishment in the 17th Century) but 1.8 million miles, which would have required 72 circumnavigations of the earth.  

Kapur also quotes an unfortunate statement made by New York Times reporter Guy Trebay (1/6/10) suggesting that Tavernier may have been involved in the acquisition of the Wittelesbach-Graff Diamond.  Though the diamond is first mentioned in 1677, while Tavernier was STILL in India completing his sixth and final voyage, there is absolutely no documentation supporting this theory.  Tavernier did mention several gems he successfully acquired and though he does not actually mention the 116 carat Tavernier Blue, the gem that eventually became the Hope, he did include a drawing of it in his book, The Six Voyages.

On the plus side, the book includes several appendices containing documents never before available to the English speaking reader and his research raises a number of intriguing theories regarding Tavernier’s motivations, travels, life and death.  Unfortunately, his sloppy copy editing may lead frustrated readers to disregard most of the  author’s conclusions.

Last, and certainly not least, in the bibliography, which includes my partly fictionalized biography of Tavernier, The French Blue, the author confuses me with someone named Robert.

 


Ruby & Sapphire, A Collector's Guide

In this general reference which can be looked upon as an update and supplement to his classic Ruby and Sapphire, Hughes, as usual, offers a uniquely personal insight into the world of corundum.

 

HughesUpdate His ability to blendup to date information with arcane references is a delight.  This volume together with his previous opus make the best general reference on ruby & sapphire published to date though I do wish Hughes had come up with a title that was not so similar to his first book.

HughesCollectorBook

As a bibliophile, I was particularly taken by his section on books and gem libraries.  Despite the fact that I have written and read extensively in the field and own a voluminous library, Hughes always seems to come up with obscure sources which send me scrambling back to that library to search for the odd passage and just as often to online sellers of rare books.

The photography appears to be a Hughes family project with contributions from his wife Wimon Manorotkul and his daughter E. Billie Hughes.  They are a truly formidable trio.   The images are uniformly beautifully composed, at times dramatic and always provacative. 

Never dry, Hughes offers a lively, if somewhat self-conscious and definitely idiosycratic narrative that is rarely off-putting and never dull.

If you missed the first volume here is an opportunity and if you didn't this book will complete the set.  Ruby & Sapphire, The Collector's Guide, published by The Gemmological Institute of Thailand (GIT), is not readily available in the U. S. Still, given its quality and the limited print run and the money saved by direct marketing, it is well worth paying the high shipping costs to get the book sent directly from the author.   

 

 

Terra Garnet: 

TGcoverWTo round out the year's splendid offerings, Vladislav Yavvorskky has brought forth his second book in his Terra series, Terra Garnet.  Like its predecessor, Terra Spinel (now out of print), this georgeous volume is sumptuously produced with fabulous images of some of the finest garnets on earth.   

VYportraitW

Vladislav Yavorskky

The accompanying text is written by Richard W. Hughes and Jonas Hjornered.  If the reader is seeking an in depth gemological analysis or history of garnet as a gemstone it won't be found here.  Other than brief introductions to garnet and a bit on producing countries, the commentary consists of short captions.  This book is all about the pictures and what pictures they are.  

Yavorskky is a talented photographer and Terra Garnet puts this talent on display. His photographs of gem mining and producing areas capture the essence of these often remote areas and will give the reader a real taste of the hard life of those who seek out precious gems.  

In these photographs, taken over twenty years, Yavorskky often juxtaposes the cut stone against the original rough material, visually initiating the reader in the awe inspiring metamorphosis that takes place as these beaufiful products of nature are transformed by the hand of man.  In the past decade, color printing technology has taken a great leap forward and this book showcases the best of it.  

One caveat: I have been adminring Vlad Yavorskky's gemstones for many years and though they are beautiful in person, many of these shots appear overproduced and likely to establish an unrealistic paradigm in the mind of the unintiated consumer.

Like Hughes' book, Terra Garnet is not available through standard channels.  This turns out to be a good thing, The book is so beautifully and expensively produced that its price would be substantially more if it was.  The reader as advised to act quickly.  Terra Garnet is available direct from the publisher


 

 

 

Ruby; Burma Days; Rangoon:

“So to compare it to a diamond seems to me to be a reasonable approach.  I am much of the same mind as you, my lord.  The ruby is one hundred times rarer; therefore, let that be the price.”  The French Blue, p.357
BurmaRVWGuide

Our Bagan guide Mr. "E" explains one of the finer points of temple archetecture to my wife Rebekah

BurmaScottMkt2

Rangoon: The Scott Market. Built in the late 19th Century, the market houses a lively market buying and selling goods of all kinds. Photo: R. W. Wise

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

©2010

After two weeks in Tucson, a week in Bangkok and a short time in the Rangoon market, I can say that fine quality unheated Burma ruby, is almost unobtainable and for what is available, source prices have risen dramatically.  This means short supply coupled with dramatic price increases for the little bit of fine Burma ruby available in the U. S. market.  Even with these increases, in smaller sizes, fine ruby remains relatively cheap compared to diamond.  Today, a fine one carat ruby commands barely 60% of the price a D-Flawless diamond.  At three carats ruby draws even and at five carats, fine Burma ruby surpasses diamond which, due to its availability in larger sizes, does not jump dramatically in price until it passes ten carats.  Ten carat diamonds are available, a ten carat ruby of fine quality is a museum piece and a ten carat ruby will command ten times the per carat price of a diamond of the same weight.

Rangoon; Scott Market.  Together with my agent Lwin, I scour the market for ruby with little luck.  Photo: Rebekah Wise
Rangoon; Scott Market. Together with my agent Lwin, I scour the market for ruby with little luck. Photo: Rebekah Wise

The international price has gradually risen because production began to peter out several years ago and most of what is now available in dealer’s inventories and picked over.  The Burmese know the value of fine ruby and the better off dealers prefer gems to paper currency.  My agent mentions a man I met over a bakery in 1994 (see SOGT pp. 159-161).  “He is a big boss now” Lwin says, “he has ruby but the price is very expensive, so what is new?” We visit his jewelry store just outside of town and see some exceptional ruby set in traditional settings.  The rich dealers don’t care if they sell.  The generals have decided to allow elections, but the people are cynical, as my guide laughs, “it will be “a selection” he says in a clever play on the English words.  Nothing much is expected to change.

So we rusticate in Bagan for a few days, visiting temples, shopping for lacquer ware along the hot dusty streets.  Then its back to Rangoon for another day in the market with little luck.

Ruby; Burma Days!

The view from a Bagan Temple:  Photo:  R. W. Wise

The view from the top of a temple showing some of the estimated four thousand temples and pagodas in the Burmese town of Bagan: Photo: R. W. Wise

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

©2010

Its hot in Burma but the early morning in Bagan is cool and breezy.  Just off our porch with its planked and varnished teak floors, a broad leaved Banana Palm nods sagely in the light breeze, a giant Acacia tree bends its ancient back, its knarled branches splayed like arthritic limbs form an umbrella over our villa’s roof.  A manicured lawn lies between us and the wide Irrawaddy River.   From the opposite bank, along a ridge of ragged hills, a glint of gold off a temple dome flickers through the dawn shroud of silvered white mist.  The mist clings though the day, turning to blue as the morning wears on.  It is the dry season and the Irrawaddy, the mother of rivers, has receded leaving a broad expanse of bare sandy shoulder exposed on either bank.

Why is the Lord Buddha smiling?
Why is the Lord Buddha smiling?  Temple of the Smiling Buddha, Bagan, Burma.  Photo:  R. W. Wise

Located in the central part of the country, ancient Bagan was the center of a city-state that flourished between the 10th and 12th Centuries until Kublai Khan’s Mongols ravaged the place in the mid 13th Century.  Today, the chief reason to visit is to see the 3,000 or so temples and pagodas that punctuate the parched countryside.   As our guide tells us, a pagoda is solid; a temple is hollow like a church with golden statues of the Buddha inside.   During the height of Bagan’s prosperity, kings constructed the largest temples as monuments to their power and perhaps more importantly, as a way to gain cosmic merit so that after their deaths they might be reborn as some higher level of being.

At The Ruby Mines:

It is tempting to believe that the lack of fine ruby in the world market is the result of the U. S. embargo, but it is not.  Burma is flanked by India and China and both these emergent powers are far more important trading partners than is the United States.  The Indians have always greatly valued ruby—in the 17th Century, French dealer Jean Baptiste Tavernier wrote of buying rubies in Europe and bringing them to India because he could get better prices from the Mogul nabobs— and China’s nouveau riche have developed a taste for luxury goods.  No, it is simply that, after a thousand years, the ruby, at least the accessible ruby has been mined out.   Certainly this is true of Mogok’s secondary deposits; every bit of alluvium in the mountain valley has been turned over not once, but a hundred times.  Mogok village itself was once moved to get at the gemstones and the small lake at the valley’s floor is a flooded excavation.   According to my Burmese agent, a Shan tribesman born in Mogok, there are still gems buried in the hardrock, but they are deeper and require blasting, heavy equipment and much more capital to mine.  Investors, however, are rather reluctant to invest.

More to come…

Bangkok Soujourn Part I

Bangkok's Chao Prya River

Bangkok's Chao Prya River

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

©2010

Arrived in Bangkok on Tuesday.   We had only a week and a day between returning home from Tucson and leaving again for Asia.  I had agreed to give a talk at the 34th GIA Gathering on the 24th.  Lecturing on jetlag.  I don’t recommend it. Still our timing was good, two days after we left, the northeast was slammed with 18″ of snow.

The Gathering, hosted by Ken Scarrett, was well organized with about 100 people in attendance, good food, good wine and good talk and all books sold.  It was great seeing old friends like Mark Smith, Richard Hughes and Gay and Joe Belmont.  GIA has established a school here with hundreds of students coming from all over the world to study gemology in Bangkok, the colored gemstone capital of the world.  It is particularly gratifying to meet and talk to this new generation of students.  I find myself in awe, they come from such an interesting variety of places and backgrounds.

Ruby; The End of Burma?

Ruby production at Mong Hsu and Mogok has shut down.  Production from Mogok has for years been little more than a trickle and now it appears that the “new mines” at Mong Hsu are at an end of their productive years.  At any rate, according to a number of sources, both mining areas are now effectively closed.

There are few Burma rubies of any quality to be found in the Bangkok market.  In many ways this resembles the situation in the late 1980s when Burma stones did not exist in the market and all that was available was mined in Thailand.  Today the Thai deposits are mined out and Africa is ruby’s new hope!  Compared with Mogok, a valley 20 miles long, the vast geology of East Africa’s Mozambique belt, a geologic formation stretching from from Ethiopia in the north all the way to Zanzibar possesses the greatest potential for gem production in the 21st Century.

MozambiquerubyWe have had the opportunity to see a number of the newer rubies from Mozambique and Tanzania including a 16 carat piece of flattish alluvial rough from Mozambique that will likely cut an 8+ carat stone.  In some cases, the color is quite marvelous, resembling the pure scarlet hues of the best of the old Thai gems.

Very fine old Thai ruby with orange secondary hue.  Courtesy:  http://www.ruby-sapphire.com/brilliance_windows_extinction.htm
Very fine old Thai ruby with orange secondary hue. Some connoisseurs consider that the slight orange frames and adds saturation to the overall color.  Courtesy:  Richard W. Hughes:

The hue itself was often of a purer red than stones from Burma though the high iron content added a murkiness—sometimes adding an orangy secondary hue or a brownish mask that was not attractive.   Both the Mozambique and Tanzanian material while geologically similar and iron bearing have measurably less iron in their composition and thus a higher degree of transparency.  Much of the Mozambique resembles the old pinkish Lai Thai material that superficially resembles some Burmese.   Due to the iron, the African material lacks the highly saturated ultraviolet punch of the best of Burma, though the best material is exceptionally beautiful in its own right.

More later, stay tuned!

Asking to see the Pigeon’s blood is like asking to see the face of God"

 

About once a month on one of the gem forums someone asks the question:

 

 

 

"What color is pigeon's blood."

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

Update © 2013

The real question is, of course, "what is the best color in ruby." Although I cover the question in some depth in my book; Secrets of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur's Guide to Precious Gemstones, it appears that a few people have yet to read the book. (pictured above a gem quality 2.09 carat natural old mine Burma ruby with a GRS "pigeon's blood certificate)

The short answer is simply that rubies should be red. Problem is there are almost no visually pure color in nature so, we speak of a mixture of colors. In gems, we normally speak of a primary and a secondary color or hue. Gems may have more than two hues but it it is difficult for even the most discerning connoisseur to see more than two. Still a ruby must be predominantly red, that is, have a primary red hue. Put another way in the color mix, red must be at least 51% of the hue mixture. If its not red its not a ruby. Any member of the gem family corundum that is any color other than red we call sapphire.

Ruby may exhibit one of a few possible secondary hues. These are: pink, purple and orange. Purple and orange are the hues immediately adjacent to red on the color wheel. You will never find a ruby with a green secondary hue. Pink, a paler less saturated red is also possible. The finest color or pigeon's blood exhibits a purple secondary hue. Why purple, there are two good reasons; one historical and the other based upon color science.

This historical explanation I owe to Vincent Pardieu. Vincent began by studying gemology in Burma and he found a dealer who explained "pigeon blood" to him. The Burmese coined the term. Purple is a hue that falls between blue and red on the color wheel. It is known scientifically as a modified spectral hue. The Burmese set gems in pure gold which is a a very rich yellow color. Blue is the compliment of red. Complimentary colors are those that cancel each other out. So when a purplish red ruby is set in yellow, the yellow of the metal cancels out the blue in the purple leaving behind, guess what an almost visually pure red.(pictured above a 1.63 carat gem quality old mine Burma ruby with a GRS "pigeon's blood certificate). So the goal for the Burmese is red, pure red! See more!

I wrote my book several years before I met Vincent in Bangkok. However, I reached the same conclusion by applying a logical analysis. My reasoning goes something like this. Color Science teaches that the color red reaches its optimum saturation (brightness) at a fairly dark tone, somewhere about 80%. This is not opinion, it is measurable scientific fact. If you consider that 100% tone would be pure black, 80% is pretty dark. Pink and orange on the other hand reach their optimum saturation at fairly light tones. Pink obviously as it is by definition paler (less bright). Orange reaches its optimum saturation at between 30-40% tone.

Purple reaches its optimum saturation at around 60% tone. Now, if you add a light pigment to a dark paint you would obviously lighten the overall effect. Same is true in transparent media. The optimum tones of red and purple mix fairly well both being both dark in tone. The purple unlike the pink does not dilute the red. Pink and orange would lighten the red thus reducing the overall saturation of the pinkish-red or orangy-red color. Purple reinforces the red, orange and pink dilute. Make sense? Not everyone agrees. Some connoisseurs like a bit or orange. They feel it frames and pumps up the red hue. A good point if you consider the effect of orange in red spinel. Be that as it may, for good historical as well as scientifically verifiable reasons, orangy red is not pigeon's blood.

The first image above is of a 2.09 carat Burmese natural ruby from the old min at Mogok. This stone has a bit purer red, exhibits less purple than the second stone, a 1.63 carat gem from the same mining area. Both, however, have been grading "Pigeon's blood" by GRS, Swiss Lab, Bangkok. As you might imagine this lab sees an awful lot of rubies. Both stones are from the Mogok Valley, this is the place, going back to the Bronze Age, where the original stones were mined back when the term pigeon's blood was coined. A lot of the gems currently in the market are from a new mining areas Mong Hsu that is about half way between Mogok and the Thai border. Mong Hsu stones can certainly be pigeon's blood color but since we are talking about a historical term I thought it best to use illustrations from the old mine.

With the discovery of new sources of ruby in Africa a controversy has arisen over use of the term pidgeon's blood to describe the color of gems most specifically from Mozambique.  The Chinese have outright banned the use of the term for ruby other than those of Burmese origin. 

At the 2012 Hong Kong show I purchesed two exceptional unheated gems from Mozambique that were described in a GRS report as "vivid red" with a color identical to Burmese stones with GRS Pidgeon's Blood certificates.  If, as I have suggested here and in my book, pigeon's blood is a definable hue then it seems to me that any ruby that meets those criteria can and should be labeled the same.

 

 

 

Want to Learn more?

Follow me on gem buying adventures to the old Burma ruby mine at Mogok. Learn how to judge the quality of rubies, sapphires, emeralds, garnets and 31 other gems. 120 carefu
lly selected photographs showing examples of the highest quality gems to educate the eye, including the Rockefeller Sapphire and many more of the world's most famous gems. Consider my book: Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur's Guide To Precious Gemstones.

 

“Wise is a renowned author… He’s
done a marvelous job of this first book, monumental work, a tour de force…My recommendation: Buy this book”.

Charles Lewton-Brain, Orchid

whether you like to know what the best colour is in Tanzanite, or how to grade a Diamond, you will find it in this book. No other book I read before dealt with this topic is such detail as Richard Wise's masterpiece."

A. Van Acker, FGA
Amazon June 2005

"Secrets Of The Gem Trade: The Connoisseurs Guide To Precious Gemstones by Richard W. Wise is an impressive new reference for dedicated dealers and collectors of gems, gemstones, and … pearls. Introducing and descriptively exploring each and every gem covered in the easy-to-use reference, Secrets Of The Gem Trade contains an illustrated summary of each stone inclusive of its history and general information, hue and tone, saturation, which may be noticed as the finest, an understanding of the particular gems rarity, and the caution for synthetics and how to depict them, however depending upon the stone there may be description of clarity, color fading, multi-color effect, etc. Secrets Of The Gem Trade is very highly recommended to anyone interested in gemology as a superbly organized, authoritative, comprehensive, and easy-to-follow reference."

 

Midwest Book Review
April 2006

Now 20% off. Read a couple of chapters online or buy one of the few remaining limited editons: www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

 

Buy it on Amazon: www.amazon.com

 

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Hong Kong Gem & Jewelry Show 2007

Prices at the 2007 Hong Kong Show

by Richard W. Wise

©2007

Dateline Hong Kong.

This Thursday the Hong Kong Post reported that the U. S. dollar had reached a historic low against most major world currencies. Perhaps more important, the dollar which has been steadily losing ground against the Thai baht since its 2001 high, recently went into freefall. Historic data. Although the dollar along with the euro remains the international currency of choice, Bangkok is the capital of the colored gemstone trade and Thai dealers think in baht and the dollar has lost 19% against the Thai currency since the September 2006 show.

Ruby & Sapphire:

That said, prices of ruby and sapphire that were up dramatically in dollar terms at last year’s show ( read my 2006 report) have shown little upward movement. This is possibly the result of very poor sales at this September’s Bangkok show and would seem to indicate that Asian dealers are reluctant to pass along additional increases to a U. S. market currently viewed as on the edge of recession. The September Hong Kong show is one of the big three, the triumvirate of shows that sets future market prices. It will be interesting to see if dealer’s restraint will last until the all important Tucson shows in February particularly if the dollar continues to slide.

As usual, dealers report that supplies are down, particularly for high quality Burmese ruby and sapphire. This is the gem dealer’s eternal lament and one is tempted to ask; “yeah right, so what else is new” except that a new pro-democracy movement has apparently broken out in Burma with thousands of people taking to the streets in the country’s two major cities Burma news updates. This has got to have a negative effect on supply, short term. Will the brutal crackdown that is sure to follow lead to new economic sanctions or a boycott of Burmese goods in the U. S. is difficult to predict.

The gemstone business in Burma exists on two levels; on the one hand large scale mining is in the hands of the government. If you are doing large scale mining, you are in business with the army and much of the important material mined in large scale operations is marketed through the semi-annual government auctions. But, gem mining is mostly a cottage industry. At least 50% of the gems produced are from small scale mom and pop ventures that fall beneath the government’s radar and is smuggled out of the country. Having been on buying trips to Burma, it is my opinion that any new sanctions will probably backfire and impact the small scale subsistence miner more than the generals.

Stay tuned.

Interested in understanding more about the grading of fine diamond, pearl and othe gems? Follow me on gem buying adventures in the pearl farms of Tahiti. Visit the gem fields of Australia and Brazil. 120 carefully selected photographs showing examples of the highest quality gems to educate the eye, including the Rockefeller Sapphire and many more of the world’s most famous gems. Consider my book: Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur’s Guide To Precious Gemstones.


“Wise is a renowned author… He’s
done a marvelous job of this first book, monumental work, a tour de force…My recommendation: Buy this book”.

Charles Lewton-Brain, Orchid

Only $37.95. Read a couple of chapters online: www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

Buy it on Amazon: www.amazon.com

Kashmir Sapphire Sets Record; A Victory for Style Over Substance?


A Victory of style over Substance?

April 25th at Christies, in a packed auction gallery, lot 261 a cushion cut 22.66 carat Kashmir sapphire set in a pendant surrounded by diamonds sold for a world record price of $3,064,000 to an anonymous bidder. At $135,000 per carat, this sale topped the former world record held by the 66.02 carat “Rockefeller Sapphire” a Burmese gem that sold for $48,871 at auction in 1991. This sale marks the ascension of sapphires found on a rocky hillside in the Indian State of Kashmir into the pantheon of super-star gemstones.

Speaking in the wake of the sale, Christie’s Head of Jewelry, Rahul Kadakia, made the following rather curious statement:

“This auction marks a turning point in the jewelry world where original design, rarity and provenance prove to be just as important as the quality of a gem.”

What precisely did Mr. Kadakia mean? Is he celebrating the final triumph of style over substance? Does he mean that the sapphire in question though rare is not so fine? The record breaking sapphire pendant (above) is certainly not a striking example of original design.

According to Christopher Smith, Vice President & Chief Gemologist at The American Gemological Laboratory, the sapphire in question is a “nice stone”. Smith, who has seen the stone but under less than ideal circumstances, makes the point that sapphires of the finest color tend to be a bit dark particularly in subdued lighting. This stone is a bit lighter and brighter at about 70% tone on the AGL scale where 80% would be ideal. The stone is well proportioned, brilliant and on a scale of 1-10 would rate between 8-8.5.

As to the gem’s provenance, interesting though not remarkable, it was never owned by royalty nor lost on the field of battle nor has it had any remarkable stories or curses associated with it. It was purchased by James J. Hill, a Minnesota industrialist of the Gilded Age, and given to his wife, Mary, on Dec. 24, 1886. Originally part of an elaborate necklace—since broken up– the sapphire remained in the Hill family until the death of Hill’s granddaughter Gertrude Boeckmann Follett, in 2006.

So what business does a nice sapphire like this have claiming a record price? Well though it may not be able to stand toe to toe with the former record holder, the 66 carat Rockefeller Sapphire (image:right), which is in Smith’s words “extraordinary” and one of the “world’s preeminent sapphires”, it is rare. Kashmir sapphires in excess of 20 carats are quite rare and if you own one it’s a seller’s market.

The fact is the finest of the Kashmir sapphire has been recognized as the top of the mark in sapphire almost since the stone’s discovery in the late 19th Century. Celebrated for it’s cornflower blue color and its trademark sleepy quality, a gem with proven Kashmir provenance commands four times the price of a comparable Ceylon stone and twice the price of a comparable Burmese sapphire. Due to its beauty and rarity it was the next logical candidate for gemstone super-stardom.

Is this a “turning point”, a victory of style over substance, of provenance over quality in the gem markets? This much is obvious, just the price of natural Burmese ruby skyrocketed in the wake of the record breaking sale of the 8.01 carat gem at Christies just two years ago, Kashmir prices, already edging toward $100,000 per carat wholesale, will strengthen. Anything with a Kashmir certificate from gem quality to aquarium gravel will see a big boost in asking prices and the publicity will further induce star-struck consumers to choose geography first and quality second. But, this is not a new trend rather just a continuation of a trend that has been in evidence for quite some time.

Follow me on gem buying adventures in the exotic entrepots of Burma and East Africa. Visit the gem fields of Australia and Brazil. 120 carefully selected photographs showing examples of the highest quality gems to educate the eye, including the Rockefeller Sapphire and many more of the world’s most famous gems. Consider my book: Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur’s Guide To Precious Gemstones.


“Wise is a renowned author… He’s
done a marvelous job of this first book, monumental work, a tour de force…My recommendation: Buy
this book”.

Charles Lewton-Brain, Orchid

Only $39.95. Read a couple of chapters online: www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

Buy it on Amazon: www.amazon.com

And now a word from our sponsor….

Possibilities for holiday giving

By Richard W. Wise, G.G.

© 2006

The holidays are fast approaching. I thought readers might like to take a look at a something new from our workshop.

During our summer show, I took the opportunity to select one of the most interesting of the Michael Dyber gem sculptures to make into a necklace and turned it over to Douglas Canivet. The center stone pictured is a 42.25 carat ametrene. This gem material shows both yellow and purple in the same crystal. It comes from only one mine, Anahi in Boliva. I like the combination of zoning and rich color and the sensitive way Michael integrated the natural features of the gem into a pleasing composition.

The necklace was completely hand fabricated. For those of you who don’t know, hand fabrication is the old method of hand making. We use the same methods as those pictured on the tombs of Egypt’s famous Valley of the Kings. In this case all the pieces were cut out of sheet gold. I don’t like to use the term handmade because everyone, including a lot of stuff that is mass-produced, is called “handmade.”

Construction and Materials:

The construction, exclusive of design time, took more than sixty hours, that’s a week and a half for a master craftsman of Doug’s caliber. We used 35.3 penny-weight (dwt.) of 18k gold. Penny weight is an old unit of measure, 20 dwt. to the ounce so a bit over an ounce and a half. The eight diamonds; 1.08 carat total weight of D-E, VS color ideal cut stones set in handmade tubes. Ideal cuts are perfectly proportioned stones that deliver between 92-98% total light return. They are dazzlers!

Notice the joinery, how the angles at which the gold links join create a juxtaposition of shape and plane that compliment the center sculpture. Note how the diamonds appear to float. The gold has a sandblasted finish. This allows the gems visual room to work.

Craftsmanship:

Contemporary hand fabricated jewels look simple. Because the designs are clean without excessive ornamentation you get the idea that they are simpler to make than say Victorian pieces with all the filagree. Not true! Most handmade jewelry is put together with gold solder and gold solder will not “fill in” empty space so every join must be fitted perfectly. Fine cabinetry is a good analogy. Its very much like building a desk or cabinet. Every angle requires a solder joint. It took about eight separate pieces just to make the setting for the center stone. In this necklace everywhere you see an angle there is a join and if the fit is not perfect you will see lumps, holes and porosity at the joint. In such a “simple” design there is no where to hide your mistakes. A master’s hand is evident not only in what you see but also in what you don’t see.

Handmade is better made:

Is there a difference between hand made and mass-manufactured. Most mass-manufactured jewelry is designed by people who have never worked in gold. The design is drawn or created on a computer then mastered in wax. The element of dialogue, the give and take between the artist and his materials together with the fine eye and sensitive mark of the hand is always missing. Then, of course, it is the only one! Does uniqueness have value? Today, much custom design is done with CAD software. A craftsman can tell a CAD designed piece a mile away. It is yet another step removed from the hand. To me CAD designed jewelry has a sterile soul-less quality.

Other Possibilities:

May I show you some of the newest additions to my gem collection? These are stones sourced on my recent trip to The Orient. These are one of a kind gems that to my eye are extraordinary.

Padparadscha Sapphire:

There seems to be a lot of interest in Padparadscha sapphire. As I define it in my book; Secrets Of The Gem Trade, Padparadscha, the word is a corruption of the Singhalese padma raga or “color of the Lotus”. Padparadscha is a pinkish orange to orangey pink sapphire. Here is the important point it must be a delicate hue. The Sri Lankans prefer as stone with a bit more pink than orange. This stone embodies the essence of the term. It is a 3.98 carat natural stone with no enhancement or treatment of any kind. It is has a flower-petal soft quality.

True un-monkeyed-around-with padparadscha sapphires is one of nature’s great rarities. This is one of the finest stones I have seen in my career. The shape makes it an excellent candidate for a pendant but if you will accept my advice, make a ring. Rings are for people who love gems and want to stop and admire.

Purple Mozambique Tourmaline:

Rare and beautiful, until the new find of cuprian tourmaline from Mozambique, I had never seen a purple tourmaline. Most purple tourmaline is actually purplish red. I am told that true purples have been found in the past few years but they were almost always heated to turn them the more desired electric blue.

I am told that the stones from Mozambique are of two types; those that can be successfully heated and those that cannot.

This one is a visually pure purple. It weighs 8.14 carats. In the magnified image you can see straight growth tubes but without magnification the stone is eye-flawless viewed face-up. It is a visually pure purple with no evidence of gray and it stands up well in both natural and incandescent lighting.

Fancy Color Diamonds; A Sweet Suite:

I tried to resist this delectable suite of orange and purple fancy color diamonds but I failed. The language of the GIA certificate calls the center a “Yellow-Orange” meaning that the two hues exist in fairly equal proportions. To me it is a yellowish-Orange, a true tangerine with all the warmth and richness of the sun kissed fruit. The two vivid purple-pinks are pure of hue with no gray or brown to either dull or muddy the hue. All three understated, elegant and beautifully cut.

A Burma Gem:


This ruby is a 2.05 carat emerald cut gem. What is a “gem”. In the gem trade, this is the appellation reserved for the crème de la crème, the finest of the fine. Everything, color, cut, clarity and crystal must be outstanding for the gem type and here it is.

“Asking to see the pigeon’s blood is like asking to see the face of God.”

Anonymous Burmese Trader

Love that quote but the truth is not quite so mysterious. “Pigeon’s blood” is a pure medium dark red with a touch (10-15%) blue that when mixed with the red reads as purplish. As an old Burmese jeweler explained it; the blue is cancelled out its compliment, the rich yellow of high carat gold leaving the gem a visually pure scarlet when set.

We have a number of fine rubies as well as fine handmade originals, antique jewelry and gemstones pictured on our website: www.rwwise.com . Please take a look and if you see something you like call me at 800.773.0249 or 413.637.1589 if you live in Berkshire County.

Looking for a large stocking stuffer? Consider Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur’s Guide To Precious Gemstones. Now in PAPERBACK for only $26.95 at our website or slightly higher at Amazon.com www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

“Wise is a renowned author… He’s
done a marvelous job of this first book,
a monumental work, a tour de force…

My recommendation: Buy this book”

Charles Lewton-Brain, Orchid