Category Archives: book review

Book Reviews: Kapur on J. B. Tavernier, Hughes on Ruby/Sapphire, Yavvorskky on Garnet

Jean Baptiste Tavernier, A Life:  KAPURIMAGE

Harish Kapur’s reasonably well written short biography of Jean Baptiste Tavernier, the 17th Century gem dealer who  the Hope Diamond has quite a bit to recommend it.  He covers the important parts of Tavernier’s life, travels and writing.  I am particularly taken by his ability to extract from the minutia of Tavernier’s long life, some of the more salient points.    

Unfortunately, the narrative is marred by a number of factual errors.  The most egregious, perhaps resulting from an injudicious use of MSWord’s find/replace shortcut the word “diamond” in the last two thirds of the manuscript has been replaced by “pearl.”  For the uninformed reader, this results in a number of misstatements about Tavernier’s objectives and focus as well as a several absurd statements concerning the “mining” of pearls and the “pearl mines” of India.   A photo of a drawing from Tavernier’s Six Voyages, of a diamond that became known as The Mirror of Portugal is ludicrisly mis-labeled “The Sara Pearl.”

The author also somehow misquotes Tavernier’s assertion that he traveled 60,000 leagues which becomes 600,000 leagues.  At three miles to the league that leads to the ridiculous assertion that Tavernier traveled not 180,000 (an amazing accomplishment in the 17th Century) but 1.8 million miles, which would have required 72 circumnavigations of the earth.  

Kapur also quotes an unfortunate statement made by New York Times reporter Guy Trebay (1/6/10) suggesting that Tavernier may have been involved in the acquisition of the Wittelesbach-Graff Diamond.  Though the diamond is first mentioned in 1677, while Tavernier was STILL in India completing his sixth and final voyage, there is absolutely no documentation supporting this theory.  Tavernier did mention several gems he successfully acquired and though he does not actually mention the 116 carat Tavernier Blue, the gem that eventually became the Hope, he did include a drawing of it in his book, The Six Voyages.

On the plus side, the book includes several appendices containing documents never before available to the English speaking reader and his research raises a number of intriguing theories regarding Tavernier’s motivations, travels, life and death.  Unfortunately, his sloppy copy editing may lead frustrated readers to disregard most of the  author’s conclusions.

Last, and certainly not least, in the bibliography, which includes my partly fictionalized biography of Tavernier, The French Blue, the author confuses me with someone named Robert.

 


Ruby & Sapphire, A Collector's Guide

In this general reference which can be looked upon as an update and supplement to his classic Ruby and Sapphire, Hughes, as usual, offers a uniquely personal insight into the world of corundum.

 

HughesUpdate His ability to blendup to date information with arcane references is a delight.  This volume together with his previous opus make the best general reference on ruby & sapphire published to date though I do wish Hughes had come up with a title that was not so similar to his first book.

HughesCollectorBook

As a bibliophile, I was particularly taken by his section on books and gem libraries.  Despite the fact that I have written and read extensively in the field and own a voluminous library, Hughes always seems to come up with obscure sources which send me scrambling back to that library to search for the odd passage and just as often to online sellers of rare books.

The photography appears to be a Hughes family project with contributions from his wife Wimon Manorotkul and his daughter E. Billie Hughes.  They are a truly formidable trio.   The images are uniformly beautifully composed, at times dramatic and always provacative. 

Never dry, Hughes offers a lively, if somewhat self-conscious and definitely idiosycratic narrative that is rarely off-putting and never dull.

If you missed the first volume here is an opportunity and if you didn't this book will complete the set.  Ruby & Sapphire, The Collector's Guide, published by The Gemmological Institute of Thailand (GIT), is not readily available in the U. S. Still, given its quality and the limited print run and the money saved by direct marketing, it is well worth paying the high shipping costs to get the book sent directly from the author.   

 

 

Terra Garnet: 

TGcoverWTo round out the year's splendid offerings, Vladislav Yavvorskky has brought forth his second book in his Terra series, Terra Garnet.  Like its predecessor, Terra Spinel (now out of print), this georgeous volume is sumptuously produced with fabulous images of some of the finest garnets on earth.   

VYportraitW

Vladislav Yavorskky

The accompanying text is written by Richard W. Hughes and Jonas Hjornered.  If the reader is seeking an in depth gemological analysis or history of garnet as a gemstone it won't be found here.  Other than brief introductions to garnet and a bit on producing countries, the commentary consists of short captions.  This book is all about the pictures and what pictures they are.  

Yavorskky is a talented photographer and Terra Garnet puts this talent on display. His photographs of gem mining and producing areas capture the essence of these often remote areas and will give the reader a real taste of the hard life of those who seek out precious gems.  

In these photographs, taken over twenty years, Yavorskky often juxtaposes the cut stone against the original rough material, visually initiating the reader in the awe inspiring metamorphosis that takes place as these beaufiful products of nature are transformed by the hand of man.  In the past decade, color printing technology has taken a great leap forward and this book showcases the best of it.  

One caveat: I have been adminring Vlad Yavorskky's gemstones for many years and though they are beautiful in person, many of these shots appear overproduced and likely to establish an unrealistic paradigm in the mind of the unintiated consumer.

Like Hughes' book, Terra Garnet is not available through standard channels.  This turns out to be a good thing, The book is so beautifully and expensively produced that its price would be substantially more if it was.  The reader as advised to act quickly.  Terra Garnet is available direct from the publisher


 

 

 

Book Review: Tears Of Mermaids

Book Review:

Tears of Mermaids, The Secret Story Of Pearls

Stephen G. Bloom

St. Martins Press

ISBN:  9780312363260, $27.99

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

Layout 1First let me say I was a bit put-off by Mr. Bloom’s prose style.  He is without a doubt an elegant writer, but the glib-gonzo style, which is ok in a short piece, rapidly gets under the skin when stretched out to book length.

Mr. Bloom is a journalist and though journalists are not expected to necessarily be experts on the subjects the write about, they do have a responsibility to thoroughly research the topic and get it right.  There are times when Bloom does, but there are   times when he does not.

His first and most egregious error occurs in his introduction.  “Pearl pricing”, he says, “is totally subjective …The same strand can go for three thousand dollars or thirty thousand dollars.”  Nonsense!  Oh yes, there is a fool born every minute, but the fact is that pearls trade in a fairly orderly market.  So, absent the fool, no such gap between bid and ask prices exists (or the buyer would be soon out of business).  Bloom would have been correct if he had said that there is no universally accepted hierarchical grading nomenclature.  That is to say, one dealer may call the finest pearls “AAA”, while another may simply start with a single “A”.  However  the basic criteria: size, symmetry, surface, luster, orient and overtone are universal and used by all.

The writer’s statements about the people he meets in his travels say a great deal more about Mr. Bloom than they do about his sources.  For example, early in the book he meets a survey group, including the celebrated former National Geographic writer Fred Ward who “seemed too important to have anything to do with me.”  Well, I am familiar with that group and they have one afternoon in which to survey an entire gem show full of pearl dealers.  Could it be that Ward was simply focused on his work? Given the book’s stated objective, one wonders why his Chapter 5, The Rana of Fresno, was included at all.  Bloom takes such obvious pleasure in exposing the foibles, real and imagined, of his sources that, at times, it is difficult to tell if he is truly writing a book about pearls or just an extended gossip column.

Bloom’s comparison between the pearl and cocaine trade is unfortunate,  as are the constant inferences that the pearl trade, and pearl dealers in general, are really quite sleazy.  Bloom spends a page and a half justifying the cocaine comparison, finally admitting that “the biggest difference is that the possession of pearls is legal.”  Cocaine is sold by neighborhood dealers and pearls by local jewelers, hey, no difference there!  He might also have mentioned that unlike cocaine, pearls are not reduced in purity at every step along the distribution pipeline, and do not destroy the life of the purchaser– but that would have ruined the riff.

The above issues aside, there is much of value in Bloom’s book.  Few have the opportunity to spend so much time trying to understand this old and arcane industry.  Bloom’s first chapter, covering the history of pearls from the time of Columbus, is well researched and provocative.  Interesting as well is his chapter on life as a deckhand on a Pearl boat off the Australian coast, though his attempt to capture the Australian argot is ludicrous and his contempt for the working sailors palpable.  Yeah Stephen, having been a deckie, I kin tell yuz dat is ezakly the way sailors are “supposed to talk.”

His chapter on pearl trading in Hong Kong is excellent as is his description of diving off the Jewelmer pearl farm. A looming environmental catastrophe in the Philippines and his last two chapters about his visit to the island of Cubagua (where it all began) are thoughtful and poignant.  Had he spent more words discussing real issues of this sort and less time lampooning the hard working people who made his book possible (I am one of those local jewelers), I would have enjoyed it a good deal more.

French Blue Reading on Video

Gold Up 65% Since Last Holiday Season, Double Whammy for Jewelers:

by Richard W. Wise  © 2009

Gold prices December 2008 to December 2009.  Courtesy Kittco

Gold prices December 2008 to December 2009. Courtesy Kittco

Jewelers have been hit with a double whammy.   Gold prices, which tipped the scales at $800 per ounce in December last year, have topped $1200, a 65% increase in the midst of the worst sales turn down in memory.   Note I didn’t mention the Great Depression.  Contrary to popular belief, I was not alive during the depression and I have yet to see a soup line in The Berkshires, but I can say that jewelers have taken a big hit.  Couple that with the fact that prices are rising rapidly on gold stock and jewelry in general.   Jewelers must either increase prices or find themselves unable to restock sold items.  For goldsmiths, it means a substantial increase in cost.  Materials are normally 30% of the price of finished handmade jewelry.

Platinum Prices Punish Jewelers:

Platinum prices have seen a spectacular run-up since last December.  By law, jewelry marked platinum must be at least 90% pure.  14k gold is 58% pure and 18k gold is 75% pure.  Added to this platinum is 40% denser, meaning that a 1×1″ cube of platinum weighs 40% more than a one inch cube of pure gold.

Platinum price increases, December to December calendar year 2009-2010

Platinum price increases, December to December calendar year 2009-2010

Platinum has unique working characteristic which means it normally takes about twice the time to create a platinum piece identical to one created in gold.  Consumers looking to save money on jewelry in white metal should consider 18k white gold.  New white gold alloys no longer have the yellowish tint of older white alloys and are pretty much impossible to separate by eye from platinum.

The French Blue, Video Reading Now Available

November 19th, Gala kickoff, reading and books signing for The French Blue hosted by the Edith Wharton foundation, The Mount drew and overflow crowd.   Rebekah Wise served as master of ceremonies introducing actor George Bergen, who dressed as the novel’s protagonist, 17th Century gem merchant/adventurer, Jean Baptiste Tavernier, read selections from Richard Wise’s newly published novel.  There are three selections:  Introduction,   Chapter 7 The Diver,   Chapter 11; The Dinner Party Coming soon, a Q&A with my humble self.

40 years and 60,000 leagues! From the seraglios of Persia to the empire of Shah Jahan:

Actor George Bergen (left) dressed in a 17th Century costume, poses with Master of Ceremonies Rebekah Wise. Bergen gave a spirited reading of selections from The French Blue to an appreciative audience at The Mount.

Actor George Bergen (left) dressed in a 17th Century costume, poses with Master of Ceremonies Rebekah Wise. Bergen gave a spirited reading of selections from The French Blue to an appreciative audience at The Mount.

From the lands of the Great Mogul of India to the court of the Sun King of France. the true-to-live story of  Jean Baptiste Tavernier, Madeleine de Goisse and the world’s most fabulous diamond explode across a panorama of three continents.   Signed copies of Richard Wise’s newly published historical novel, The French Blue are now available at the book’s website.

Book Review and Yale Symposium, The Art of Adornment

The Gem Merchants, a novel of the gem trade.

Fergurson

The Gem Merchants:  Ray Ferguson, Piermont Gem Publications, ISBN: 978-0982103401.  $22.95

In Ray Ferguson’s exciting new novel The Gem Merchants, the young protagonist Mark Branson has achieved what every gem dealer dreams of.   He is on the scene at the time and place of a major gem strike.  In this case, the place is Zambia just as a major cache of emeralds has been unearthed.

Branson, the gem buyer for a small London firm, manages to purchase a king’s ransom in rough emerald crystals, but to hold on to them and get them out of the country, Branson must navigate his way through a series of obstacles including greedy politicians, sadistic military men and a grasping Indian gem dealer .

The book is realistic and well paced.  Ferguson show an adept hand in character development and a good sense of place.   No mere cardboard cutouts, his characters live , breath and are quite believable.  Along the way, the author, himself a gem dealer currently living in Madagascar, teaches us a good bit about the gem trade and how it operates across the world.     I  highly recommend The Gem Merchants to anyone who is interested in a fast paced, entirely believable and authentic account of the adventurous side of the international gem trade.   The book is currently in pre-release and can be ordered at Amazon.     http://www.amazon.com/Gem-Merchants-Ray-Ferguson/dp/0982103409/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s

Yale Jewelry Symposium

On Friday and Saturday, October 16-17, the Yale University Art Gallery will present The Art of Adornment, The American Jewelry Tradition from the 17th Century to the Present. This symposium will feature several well known speakers including; Marjorie K. Shick, Robert Ebendorf, Janet Zapata, Sharon Church and Yvonne J. Markowitz.  I will be giving a talk entitled:  The Desire and Allure of Gems. at 2:30pm on the 16th.

Anyone interested in attending can access the symposium program on the internet at:  http://artgallery.yale.edu/pages/info/adornment.html

Book Review: Emeralds, A Passionate Guide by Ronald Ringsrud

by Richard W. Wise

The subtitle of Ronald Ringsrud’s new book, A Passionate Guide, The Emeralds, The People, their Secrets has been well selected. The book is not just about emerald, most specifically Colombian emerald, it is about a country, its people and one man’s love affair with it all.

I first met Ron Ringsrud about a year and a half ago. I had never been to Colombia and as is my custom whenever I go into a new market, I was looking for a guide to the country and its emeralds. Ron Ringsrud was an inspired choice.

He is fluent in Spanish and has been involved in the trade and traveling to Colombia for over twenty years. He is a true aficionado and knows whereof he speaks.

The book begins with an excellent summary of the history of emerald mining in Colombia coupled with a history of the Mogul Empire and more specifically the Indian princes whose love affair with the Colombian emerald began, almost as soon as the Spanish conquered the mines in the 16th Century. Continue reading

Book Review: American Cut, The First 100 Years by Al Gilbertson

by Richard W. Wise
©2007

Al Gilbertson, G.G.
The Gemological Institute of America
Paperback, 214 Pages. $29.95


American Cut, The First 100 Years, sets the record straight. Al Gilbertson tells the true story of the development of the ideal cut round brilliant diamond. First, Gilbertson clears away the prevailing myth endlessly repeated by industry writers, including this one, that Marcel Tolkowsky was the first to articulate the proper proportions for fashioning a round brilliant cut diamond.

Gilbertson has done his homework. He traces the origin of a finely cut diamond from its origins in Early European history to a maverick American jeweler by the name of Henry Morse. Morse, a jeweler not a cutter, opened a diamond cutting shop in Boston around 1860. Morse had the idea that improving the cut of a diamond would result in a more beautiful stone and that better looking stones would sell better. This revolutionary concept brought him in direct conflict with his own employees, diamond cutters educated in Europe where cutters were actually fined if they lost too much weight cutting a diamond.

The author makes the point, not unknown to young men shopping for an engagement ring today, that in diamonds, better meant bigger. From earliest times, European monarchs were in competition with one another to own the biggest diamonds. The ownership of a big rock was a status symbol that added luster to a reign not to mention being a highly portable source of ready money. Not everyone agreed, Louis XIV, the biggest gem collector of them all, ordered his jeweler, Pitau to recut the French Blue from a hefty 114 carats to a mere 66, a loss of 41%, simply to improve its sparkle.

Morse has the good luck to hire a fellow named Charles Field, as his shop foreman. Field invented a mechanical diamond bruting machine that replaced the old method of hand rounding, a laborious process of hand rubbing that required weeks to shape a single gem. Morse experimented with a series of cutting angles and by 1870 had discovered crown and pavilion angles that dramatically improved face-up appearance. Morse and Field then invented a gauge to be used by their cutters to achieve the true precursor of modern “ideal cut” round.

There is a whole lot more. Gilbertson takes us right to the present discussing the influence of Tolkowsky and American pioneer gemologists, Frank Wade and GIA founder Robert Shipley. Gilbertson’s own insights into beauty and diamond cutting are of real interest. He was part of the team that researched over 70,000 sets of proportions that led to the new GIA diamond cut evaluation system and knows whereof he speaks.

Profusely illustrated, well researched and thoughtfully written, American Cut, The First 100 Years gives us the real story. It is one of those books that deserve a place of every gemologist’s library. At $29.95 it is a bargain. Order here




Ordered American Cut, The First 100 Years? Still have a few dollars left?

Follow me on gem buying adventures in the pearl farms of Tahiti. Visit the gem fields of Australia and Brazil. 120 carefully selected photographs showing examples of the highest quality gems to educate the eye, including the Rockefeller Sapphire and many more of the world’s most famous gems. Consider my book: Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur’s Guide To Precious Gemstones.


“Wise is a renowned author… He’s
done a marvelous job of this first book, monumental work, a tour de force…My recommendation: Buy this book”.

Charles Lewton-Brain, Orchid

whether you like to know what the best colour is in Tanzanite, or how to grade a Diamond, you will find it in this book. No other book I read before dealt with this topic is such detail as Richard Wise’s masterpiece.”

A. Van Acker, FGA
Amazon June 2005

“Secrets Of The Gem Trade: The Connoisseurs Guide To Precious Gemstones by Richard W. Wise is an impressive new reference for dedicated dealers and collectors of gems, gemstones, and … pearls. Introducing and descriptively exploring each and every gem covered in the easy-to-use reference, Secrets Of The Gem Trade contains an illustrated summary of each stone inclusive of its history and general information, hue and tone, saturation, which may be noticed as the finest, an understanding of the particular gems rarity, and the caution for synthetics and how to depict them, however depending upon the stone there may be description of clarity, color fading, multi-color effect, etc. Secrets Of The Gem Trade is very highly recommended to anyone interested in gemology as a superbly organized, authoritative, comprehensive, and easy-to-follow reference.”

Midwest Book Review
April 2006

Only $37.95. Read a couple of chapters online: www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

Buy it on Amazon: www.amazon.com